Maraş Goldwork Embroidery is a technique where leather, fabric, or cardboard is used to create raised patterns on fabric, which are then embroidered with gold thread or metallic yarn. The history of Maraş Goldwork Embroidery dates back to the Seljuk period. It spread from the Dulkadir Principality, which ruled the Kahramanmaraş region, to the Ottoman Palace through brides sent to the Ottoman Empire. Maraş embroidery became known in the Ottoman court when Emine Hatun, the daughter of the Dulkadir Bey, brought her Maraş Goldwork Embroidery dowry as a bride to Sultan Mehmed I. Later, Siddi (Mükrime) Hatun, who became the bride of Sultan Mehmed II (Fatih Sultan Mehmed), also brought dowry items consisting of Maraş Goldwork Embroidery works, which gained recognition in the Balkans.
The designs of Maraş Goldwork Embroidery consist of Turkish-Islamic motifs. In the embroidery, traditional motifs like carnations, tulips, roses, and daisies are used, along with geometric patterns, symmetry, and the principle of infinity. The embroidery is achieved with silk threads, metallic yarns, and gold thread in various colors, forming floral and leaf patterns.
In the making of Maraş Goldwork Embroidery, the back and front sides of the fabric appear different. The pattern is raised using specially prepared cardboard underneath. When the embroidery begins, a technique is applied where seven layers of gold thread or three layers of metallic yarn are laid over the pattern, and the thread underneath is fastened to the edges side by side. The embroidery has a distinct appearance on both sides: the front resembles a wrapped stitch, while the back looks similar to a herringbone stitch. The lower thread is not visible from the top, and the upper thread is not visible from the bottom. The knots of the lower and upper threads remain between the fabric and the edges of the pattern.
Maraş Goldwork Embroidery was traditionally crafted by saddle makers. They embroidered on the felt used for horse bridles, reins, and saddles. Today, this technique is applied to clothing, accessories, home décor, bridal trousseaus, and tourist souvenirs.
Maraş Goldwork Embroidery Stitching Techniques
There are four main types of wrapping techniques in Maraş Goldwork Embroidery:
- Flat wrapping technique
- Diagonal wrapping technique
- Leaf wrapping technique
- Openwork (petal) wrapping technique
Other auxiliary techniques used are:
- Raised wrapping technique
- Applique technique
- Pesent technique
- Matt stitch technique
- Herringbone technique
The traditional motifs used in Maraş Goldwork Embroidery and the principles of their application require mastery and craftsmanship. All stages of production for Maraş Goldwork Embroidery, which is renowned for its geographic association, take place within the geographic boundaries.
The product is inspected in accordance with the production method and distinguishing characteristics, focusing particularly on the following principles:
- Embroidery must be done with metallic yarn or gold thread.
- The embroidery must be executed using the correct techniques.
- The cardboard cutting process must be properly done.
- The fabrics must be suitable for the work.
- The top layer of metallic yarn must be embroidered smoothly.
- The cardboard backing must be cleaned.
- The ironing and storage methods of the embroidery must be appropriate.